When the vineyards turn gold, steam rises from the pans, and the scent of chestnuts drifts through the valleys, South Tyrol enters the season everyone awaits – Törggelen. First a hike, then a cozy stop, tasting the new wine and celebrating autumn cuisine in good company. It’s a tradition still alive in farm parlors today, as warm and welcoming as ever.

What Törggelen means – origins and living tradition

The name goes back to the “Torggl,” the old wine press. Winemakers sampled the young vintage, served simple dishes, and invited neighbors. Especially in the Eisack Valley, this grew into a distinct autumn culture. Today, Törggelen follows the same rhythm: stroll through chestnut groves and vineyards, then in the afternoon stop at a “Buschenschank” (farm tavern) where homemade fare is served – unpretentious, full of flavor.

Buschenschank in South Tyrol – quality straight from the farm

A Buschenschank serves what the farm and cellar provide. Bread from the farm’s own oven, speck and cheese from animals you know, cider or wine from the family barrel, and sweet fritters to finish. And of course chestnuts, freshly roasted, warm in your hand, with that gentle crack as the shell opens. This closeness to the source is the charm – honest, seasonal, regional.

Törggelen cuisine – from the first spoonful to the “Nuier”

The menu follows a familiar rhythm. It begins with hearty barley soup or a speck platter. Then come dumplings and cured pork, sometimes house sausages and sauerkraut. Dessert is fritters and chestnuts – sweet, nutty, fragrant. To drink: “Nuier” or “Suser,” the new wine or sweet grape must. It tastes mild but can be potent, so the rule is: sip slowly and have water alongside.

Hikes that fit – the Chestnut Trail as a golden line

Movement belongs to a perfect Törggelen day. The Chestnut Trail links Neustift Abbey near Brixen/Bressanone with Terlan/Terlano – about 90 kilometers through sweet chestnut groves, larch stands, and vineyards. Many choose short sections of two to four hours – family-friendly, with little elevation gain and numerous access points in the valley. Culture lovers combine village strolls, promenades, or “Waalwege” (historic irrigation paths), timing their tavern stop for late afternoon.

Autumn highlights between Velthurns, Chiusa & Renon

As the slopes turn, autumn becomes a showcase. Around Velthurns, Chestnut Weeks and the “Keschtnigl” festival draw visitors with traditions, music, and regional cuisine. The best photo window is usually mid-October to early November, when leaves and vines glow in gold and copper and the air is crystal clear.

Travel gently – Törggelen without a car

Traveling sustainably is easy. With the Mobilcard you reach Chestnut Trail trailheads by bus and train and return relaxed in the evening. No parking hassles, and that glass of Nuier doesn’t mean you have to drive. Many Buschenschänke lie within a short walk of stops – enjoyment without detours.

After the hike, unwind – a quiet spa moment

Autumn can continue in the spa. A chestnut-oil massage, a grape-and-nut scrub, or a warm bath with grapeseed extract brings tired legs back to life. Scents are subtle, treatments nature-based – a gentle close to a long day outdoors.

FAQ – Törggelen in South Tyrol

When is the best time for Törggelen?
From late September to late November, with peaks around All Saints’ Day and St. Martin’s.

Do I need a reservation at a Buschenschank?
Yes, especially on weekends. Parlors are small and fill up quickly.

Which route is best for families?
Short Chestnut Trail sections with little elevation gain and a bus ride back are ideal.

What always belongs to Törggelen?
An autumn hike, farm-made dishes in a Buschenschank, Nuier or Suser, and freshly roasted chestnuts.